Day 71: West Angle to Castlemartin

It was a wild day today – wild weather and rugged scenery! It was threatening to rain as we left West Angle, so we donned our wet weather gear and not a moment too soon! The path took us past the East Block House; built to guard the estuary in 1542 however it is steadily falling into the sea due to erosion.

Thorn Island fort

West Angle 

East Block House ruins

On the slope above we came across on old battery and World War II gun emplacements.

Rat Island

Rugged coastline with Sheep Island to the rear

Angled sandstone cliffs

World War II gun emplacement

By this time the weather had become truly wild as we struggled against a raging wind and pelting rain. The path was pinned to the edge of the cliffs by a fenceline and with the strong winds I was struggling not to end up impaled on the barb wire or worse still, falling off the edge of the cliff!

Looking back towards Sheep Island

Further along we encountered another ruined lookout which stood at the far side of Parsonsquarry Bay and the arch of Guttle Hole just beyond.

Forlorn lookout at Parsonsquarry Bay

Lookout ruins, Parsonsquarry Bay

Guttle Hole

Around the Pickards Bay, the path dropped and climbed steeply four times in quick succession, however it was a beautiful stretch of wild coast walking until the sandy expanse of Freshwater West finally came into view. This is a renowned surfing beach and film set (used both by Harry Potter and Robin Hood). The inclement weather did little to deter some hardened surfers and families enjoying the beach. That was until a large front came along with its torrential downpour and hail! Alas we were caught out on the open beach with no shelter whatsoever!

The path follows the undulating cliff tops

Our first view of Freshwater West

North end of Freshwater West

Rock formations on Freshwater West

North end of Freshwater West

Downpour approaching

Freshwater channels on beach at Freshwater West

We were delighted to come across Café Môr up at the carpark. This café is renowned for its laverbread, a Celtic delicacy which is produced from a particular type of seaweed (very similar to the seaweed which is used by the Japanese – Nori). After being gathered the seaweed is thoroughly washed and is cooked until it becomes soft. It is then minced to convert it into a paste like texture. We sampled a breakfast roll complete with bacon, laverbread, cheese, pickles and seaweed relish. To top it off we also had a hot chocolate spiced with seaweed flavoured rum. Delicious and warming after our recent drenching on the beach!

Cafe Mor

Hot chocolates with seaweed spiced rum!

Freshwater West as the clouds break up

South end of Freshwater West

On the point at the far end of the beach was a recreated thatched hut of the sort traditionally used to dry seaweed in before being used to make laverbread – the huts were usually made from driftwood and marram grass.

Point at south end of Freshwater West

Recreation of thatched hut traditionally used to dry seaweed

From here we followed the road for a short distance before taking the permissive route through the Castlemartin Firing Range. The path cut behind Chapel Farm before emerging on a lane on the edge of Castlemartin where we finished our walk for the day.

Relic dunes in the Castlemartin Firing Range

Castlemartin Range Trail

Tree lined lane at Castlemartin