Day 11: Benllech to Amlwch Port

We broke up camp early and headed towards the cliff at the bottom of our campsite to follow a delightful path through dense thickets above the limestone shelf – the first true clifftop path we had encountered on the Welsh coast.

Cliff to path from Benllech

Walking along the cliff top path

After rounding a ruined cottage on Penrhyn Point, we briefly headed inland past a couple of campsites before dropping steeply down to Traeth Bychan. After making our way through a number of fields we reached the edge of Moelfre a picturesque village full of English tourists. As we made our way into the village I noticed a newer house towards the cliff edge and commented to Greg that the house looked familiar. We stopped for ‘second breakfast’ at a cute café opposite the ‘familiar’ house and on questioning the staff it was confirmed that the house had previously featured on Grand Designs!

Village of Moelfre - Grand Designs house second from left

On our way out of town we stopped in at the lifeboat visitor centre which included interesting information on a number of shipwrecks along the coast. The most famous being the Royal Charter which was blown against rocks during a freak storm.  One member of the crew, Maltese born Guzi Ruggier also known as Joseph Rogers managed to swim ashore with a line, enabling a few people to be rescued, and a few others were able to struggle to shore through the surf. Most of the passengers and crew, a total of over 450 people, died.

Sculpture of Joseph Rogers

Cottages along the coast just outside of Moelfre

The path continued to follow the cliffs for a number of kilometres before heading inland due to the river Goch (Afon Goch). After stopping for some refreshments at the Pilot Boat Inn we made our way across the estuary, up some rather steep roads before crossing yet more fields. We eventually rounded the headland at Llaneilian and Trwyn Eilian Lighthouse before crossing heather covered heaths and finally dropping into Amlwch Port at 7.30pm. We stumbled our way into the Liverpool Arms looking for a meal to find the place full of inebriated locals in fine form.

Clifftops with look out tower at Craig-ddu

View of the estate of the former Llys Dulas Manor

Views to the coast from inland

Wind swept tree and old stone wall

Walking across paddocks along Penrhyn Glas

Trwyn Eilian Lighthouse

Crossing grassy heath with Trwyn Eilian Lighhouse in the distance

Our ultimate destination today had been Bull Bay which was another 3.5 km up the path however we were both exhausted and given how late in the day it was we ordered a taxi to take us to our home for the night, the Rhianfa Bed and Breakfast.