Day 31: Clynnog Fawr to Neyfn

It was a very foggy start to the day, so the countryside looked grey and gloomy. Our day began at Clynnog Fawr where we visited St Beuno’s Church, a large squat church which stands on the site of a monastery founded in the seventh century by Beuno himself. It was an important stopping place for pilgrims on the route to Bardsey Island. The graveyard contains a tenth century sundial etched in the face of a tall standing stone.

St Beuno's Church

10th Century sundial etched on standing stone

From here we walked across fields to Bachwen Burial Chamber, a fine Neolithic dolmen standing proudly against the elements.

Bachwen Burial Chamber

We then visited St Beuno’s well which is enclosed in a walled enclave. Its curative waters were said to be particularly useful for epilepsy or eye problems. 

St Beuno's well

At Trefor Harbour we got views back across the bay to Gyrn Goch and Gyrn Ddu. Further along the views were dominated by the incredible tower-like mine ruins of Yr Eifl granite quarries. The blank faces of the giant crushers offer echoes of the crumbling husks of the grand hotels that litter this coast. 

Boats moored at Trefor Harbour

The peaks of Gyrn Goch and Gyrn Ddu

Yr Eifl granite quarries

Our path took us up a very steep track past the old quarry and over Bwlch yr Eifl, one of the highest points on the Wales Coast Path. From here we detoured off the path taking an hour or so to walk to the Iron Age hillfort of Tre’r Ceiri (‘Town of Giants’).  Evidence suggests that this settlement was first built around 200 BC, though most of the archaeological finds date from AD 150–400, showing the site continued as a settlement during the Roman occupation.

View back towards Trefor Harbour

Tre'r Ceiri with Yr Eifl in background

Tre'r Ceiri is one of the most spectacular ancient monuments in Wales. The settlement is surrounded by stone walls that are largely intact, and which reach up to 4 metres in some places. Within the walls are ruins of about 150 stone houses, which would have had turf roofs. During Roman times, it may have housed up to 400 people. It was a fascinating place to visit and well worth the detour off the track.

Elevated view of Tre'r Ceiri 

Remains of Iron Age circle house

From here we made our way back to the Coast Path which descended via a very steep road down to the beautiful hamlet at Porth y Nant which contains the Welsh Language and Heritage Centre. The centre is housed in the old quarrymen’s cottages which were vacated on the closure of the quarry in the 1940’s. 

Porth y Nant bottom left of photo. Old quarry sites in distance.

 We made our way along the stony beach and up and over a very steep headland. The views from top were spectacular. From here we made a slow descent via fields and narrow wooded paths to the small fishing town of Neyfn. 

Making my way up the stony beach

Our destination, Nefyn in the distance