Day 40: Criccieth to Talsarnau

We had a bit of a chill out day yesterday hanging out in our hired apartment in Barmouth before heading into the town centre for some lunch and sightseeing. However, today we were back on the path walking from Criccieth to Talsarnau, a distance of 20.5km. We started the day in Criccieth walking along the promenade before veering off to walk along an overgrown track adjacent to the railway.

Criccieth Beach

Looking back along the beach to Criccieth Castle

Walking the path alongside the railway

Marshland at Rhiw-for-fawr

We then made our way across a field and over the headland at Graig Ddu before dropping down to the broad beach at Black Rock Sands. This is one of the few beaches that we have come across that allow vehicle access.

Looking back along track from Graig Ddu to Criccieth

Walking along the wide expanse of Black Rock Sands

After walking 2km down the beach we rounded the headland at Ynys Cyngar and followed the path around the beautiful Samson’s Bay before making our way to the seaside town of Borth-y-Gest where we stopped for some lunch.

View across Samson's Bay to Ynys Cyngar

Low tide at Borth-y-Gest

After lunch we followed the path round to the boatyards at Porthmadog. The harbour was formed after the Afon Glaslyn was diverted in the process of draining the marshes of Traeth Mawr. The town grew around the export of slate from the quarries at Ffestiniog, for which the Ffestiniog Railway was built, and took its name from Prince Madog.

 

Boats moored at Porth Madog Harbour

Steam engine on the Ffestiniog Railway

The path then took us across the Cob (dyke or embankment) through an area of estuarine marshes before we left the Llyn Peninsula and made our way into Meirionnydd. This marked the completion of stage three of our walk around Wales. We had walked a total distance of 170.5 km around the Llyn Peninsula and gained a total height of 2390 m. This section of the walk took us 8 days to complete.

 

Traeth Mawr as viewed from The Cob

Celebrating completing Stage 3 of our walk

From here we made our way over fields and through woodlands before skirting around the edge of Portmerion, an eclectic model village built in 1926 on the site of Deudraeth Castle. Then it was onwards via the road to Penrhyndeudraeth and over the new bridge spanning the Pont Briwet before heading away from the road and walking along the embankment surrounding the marshes alongside the Afon Dwyryd.

View from headland across The Cobb to Porthmadog

Tidal reach of the Afon Dwyryd

Walking along the embankment around the marshes of Afon Dwyryd